Santander was our little home for a month, in August, and we loved it. It’s a really beautiful, clean and well-kept city, with loads of green space, huge parks (we went running almost every day in Las Llamas) and beaches for every taste, with and without waves. And something that surprised us: it was the least cold water we found anywhere in northern Spain.
In this guide we tell you about the things to do in Santander, including our favourite plan in the city: the walk to Cabo Mayor Lighthouse along the Senda de Mataleñas.
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Summary: things to do in Santander
| Category | Key details |
|---|---|
| Must-sees | Magdalena Peninsula and Palace, Senda de Mataleñas to Cabo Mayor Lighthouse, El Sardinero, Centro Botín |
| Recommended days | 2 days for the main sights · 3 or 4 to enjoy the beaches |
| Free | Magdalena Peninsula, Senda de Mataleñas, the lighthouse art centre, beaches |
| Best time to go | Summer (August, with the least cold water in the north) |
| From the airport | S4 bus to the bus station, in less than 20 minutes |
| Key tip | Walk the trail to the lighthouse on a sunny day |
1. The Magdalena Peninsula and Palace
The best-known walk in Santander is to the Magdalena Peninsula, first following the beaches. The whole peninsula is a huge park and access is free (from 8:00 to 22:00, on foot only). At the top stands the Magdalena Palace, huge and gorgeous. For those who watch TV series: its exteriors were the hotel in Gran Hotel.
To go inside the palace you need to take the guided tour: it costs €7 (€5 reduced), lasts about 45 minutes, is in Spanish and can only be booked online, up to 15 days in advance.
2. The Magdalena beaches
The beaches on the Magdalena Peninsula have no waves, ideal for families and for people who, like us, love swimming: they looked like swimming pools.
3. El Sardinero
On the other side are the beaches of El Sardinero, the most famous in the city, with a few waves, although small ones, and a seafront promenade that’s perfect for walking. The trail to the lighthouse starts here.
4. The Senda de Mataleñas to Cabo Mayor Lighthouse
If we had to choose just one place in Santander, it would be this walk. Most people drive to the lighthouse, but our recommendation is to walk it: the views along the whole way are the reward.
The Senda de Mataleñas is an official route that starts to the left of El Sardinero beach and passes the Cabo Menor viewpoint, Los Molinucos beach, Mataleñas Park and Mataleñas beach, all the way to the Cabo Mayor viewpoint and the lighthouse. If the sun is shining, don’t miss it.
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5. Mataleñas beach
One of our favourite beaches in the area: crystal-clear water in a beautiful turquoise colour, between very high cliffs. You go down more than 150 steps, and at the bottom you find this 125-metre paradise. The day we went it was sunny and the sea had almost no waves, so we swam loads. There are lifeguards in summer.
6. Cabo Mayor Lighthouse
At the end of the trail is the lighthouse, on top of the cliffs. Inside there’s an art centre with free entry (Tuesday to Sunday from 11:00 to 14:00, and on Fridays and Saturdays also from 17:00 to 20:00). And if you want to go up the tower, there’s a guided tour of about 45 minutes for €5, booked online (children under 10 aren’t allowed).
7. Centro Botín
Facing the bay, Centro Botín is the city’s big art centre, in a modern building that has become a symbol of Santander. Tickets cost €9 online (€10 at the ticket office) and it’s free for under-18s. Opening hours change with the season.
8. Paseo de Pereda and the bay
The promenade along the bay, with its elegant buildings, links the centre with Centro Botín and the Puertochico area. Perfect for a walk at sunset.
9. Mercado de la Esperanza
A market in a modernist building from 1904, right in the centre, where you can see (and taste) produce from the Cantabrian Sea.
10. Las Llamas Park
Our park for going running: 11 hectares of green space opened in 2007, with a wetland area that migratory birds visit and a bike lane. A real luxury for a city.
11. The hills and the escalators
Santander is quite a hilly city, full of steep ups and downs. The good thing is that in many places there are public escalators and lifts that make the climb easier. A round of applause for that!
12. Guided tours and legends of Santander
If you’d like to learn about the city’s history with a local guide, there are two free tours, both in Spanish: the classic one through the centre and another one about mysteries and legends. If you’d rather have other options, have a look at the tours and activities in Santander on Civitatis.
How many days to spend in Santander (itinerary)
With 2 days you can see the main sights; with more, you get to enjoy the beaches.
| Day | What to do |
|---|---|
| Day 1 | Free tour of the centre (in Spanish) · Mercado de la Esperanza · Paseo de Pereda and Centro Botín · sunset over the bay |
| Day 2 | El Sardinero · Senda de Mataleñas and a swim at Mataleñas · Cabo Mayor Lighthouse · Magdalena Peninsula |
How to get to Santander
From Seve Ballesteros airport, the S4 bus drops you at Santander bus station in less than 20 minutes, with departures roughly every 40 minutes, from 7:20 to 22:30.
If you’re going to explore Cantabria on your own, renting a car is the most convenient option.
Where to stay in Santander
We lived in the city for a month, and the two areas we like best to stay in are the centre and El Sardinero.
Travel insurance for Spain
We never travel without insurance. We use IATI and, through our link, you get a 5% discount. If you’re travelling from outside the European Union, have a look at our travel insurance guide.
Frequently asked questions about things to do in Santander
How many days do you need to see Santander?
With 2 days you can see the main sights: the Magdalena Peninsula, El Sardinero, the trail to Cabo Mayor Lighthouse, the centre and Centro Botín. We lived there for a month and still left things for next time.
Is the Magdalena Peninsula free?
Yes: access to the peninsula and its gardens is free, from 8:00 to 22:00, on foot only. To go inside the palace you need to take the guided tour (€7), which is booked online.
How do you walk to Cabo Mayor Lighthouse?
Along the Senda de Mataleñas, an official route that starts from El Sardinero and passes the Cabo Menor viewpoint, Los Molinucos beach, Mataleñas Park and Mataleñas beach all the way to the lighthouse. For us, the best thing to do in Santander.
Can you go up Cabo Mayor Lighthouse?
Yes, on a guided tour of the tower that costs €5, is booked online and isn’t open to children under 10. The lighthouse’s art centre is free.
How do you get from Santander airport to the city centre?
On the S4 bus, which runs from the airport to Santander bus station roughly every 40 minutes and takes less than 20 minutes.
What is the best time to visit Santander?
Summer, to enjoy the beaches. We went in August and it was the least cold water we found anywhere in northern Spain.
Conclusion: Santander, a city to come back to
We saw everything the weather allowed us to, and even so we left loads for next time. Santander combines city, beaches and nature like few places do: if you go, save a sunny day to walk to Cabo Mayor Lighthouse and then tell us how it went. See you next time, northern Spain!
To keep planning your trip, have a look at our guide to Spain.
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